Archives for March 2007

Are Homes Actually A Horrible Investment?

Here’s an article specifically designed to push people’s buttons: Why Your Home Is Not the Investment You Think It Is from the Wall Street Journal. It questions the plan of many people to use their home as part of their retirement strategy, and points to economic studies that show that houses often (1) cost more than most people make when they sell and (2) rarely match the long-term returns of stocks or other investments.

Did you know:

  • If you bought a house in Los Angeles in 1990, just as the real-estate market turned downward, you would have had to wait a decade for your home’s value to return to what you paid.
  • If you bought in Rochester, N.Y., in 1980, you would have seen only a mediocre 4% annual growth for the next 25 years.
  • If you bought in Dallas in 1986, as the oil boom went bust, your home wouldn’t have appreciated at all before 1998.

Some other excepts:

When most homeowners figure their returns, they don’t do much more than subtract the price they paid from the price they received. Then they come up with a really big return because they paid only a 10% or 20% down payment. So they figure they made a huge “profit.”

But they didn’t. That’s because the costs of owning a home — buying it with a long-term mortgage and then paying taxes on it, insuring it, repairing it, renovating it — sap most of what most homeowners think they make in price appreciation.

I can agree with this. This overestimation of returns happens all the time in all forms of investing.

Boom market or bust, home buying has so many extra costs — from upfront “points” paid to a lender to title insurance and appraisal fees — that over the first five to seven years, a renter who invests the equivalent of a down payment in stocks could easily do better overall than a house buyer. Compounding that problem: Most homeowners move within seven years.

As the ownership timeline stretches out to 15, 20 or 30 years, however, the buyer will almost certainly do better than the renter, especially given the tax benefits of paying mortgage interest over traditional rent and the big rebate when the owner finally sells.

There is always a break-even point. Recently, it has been as little as one year, but now it may be 5 – 10 years. This will vary by location, as some areas are still going up, while other are well on their way down.

Whether you come out ahead depends on where and when you buy. Even cash buyers might be surprised to see that they can’t be assured of making a profit.

“The Costs of Home Ownership” table is a simplified rundown on a typical single-family home — a house that was bought for $50,000 in 1977 — based on national appreciation rates as reported by the Office of Federal Housing Enterprise Oversight (OFHEO). Included are modest estimates of other home-owning costs (not adjusted for inflation). To keep things simple, there are no transaction costs, no additional borrowing to finance improvements and no refinancing costs, all of which would drive the expenses even higher. It’s not a pretty picture.

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I’m sorry, but this analysis seems a bit biased. Let me count the ways:

  1. The interest rate is at 8.72%. While it may have started out that high, there’s no way they wouldn’t have refinanced within those 30 years and significantly lower their rates.
  2. $3,000 a year for taxes and insurance my be reasonable, but still feels on the high side for a house that went from $50k to $300k. That 6% to 1% annually, with an average of about 4% due to exponential growth. Maybe if they lived in Texas.
  3. $150,000 for “major repairs” on top of $1,800 every year in “maintenance costs”? My parents have lived in their house for almost twenty years and have replaced their heater once. That’s it. What costs $150k to fix on a $300k house?

While their point is made that you need to take in all housing costs, if you take out the $150,000 bombshell, both scenarios made a decent profit.

In the end, I think it’s good that people take a critical look at some of their housing assumptions. Maybe they are a worse investment than some people think. As for me, my basic opinions remain the same:

Regarding buy-vs-rent, I think people should run several different possible scenarios and make a decision based on their specific geographic location and potential need to move. You may need to stay in the house for 5-10 years to making buying profitable. Most calculators rely on several hard-to-predict factors, including the annual appreciation of the property, the annual rising of rent, and the assumed return on the money that is not put towards a mortgage, i.e. when you “rent and invest the difference.” Keep in mind that you’ll need a 10+ year horizon to guarantee that you’ll get 8% or whatever in stocks. If you’ll need the money sooner, you should probably keep it in more conservative investments and lower your projections. Try a bunch of different combinations of numbers to see how they affect the results.

Finally, housing prices are not as efficient as stocks. It is quite possible to negotiate with buyers and be picky in this buyer’s market. I don’t have to pull the trigger unless I see both a house and a price that I like.

Pet Food Recall Involving Many Popular Brands

If you’re a pet owner and buy canned or “wet” food, you should read about the Menu Foods recall after reports of kidney failure and deaths. According to this CNN/AP article, Menu Foods makes pet foods for all these companies from just two factories:

Iams; Eukanuba; America’s Choice; Preferred Pets; Authority; Award; Best Choice; Big Bet; Big Red; Bloom; Bruiser; Cadillac; Companion; Demoulas Market Basket; Fine Feline Cat; Shep Dog; Food Lion; Giant Companion; Great Choice; Hannaford; Hill Country Fare; Hy-Vee; Key Food; Laura Lynn; Loving Meals; Main Choice; Mixables; Nutriplan; Nutro Max; Nutro Natural Choice; Nutro; Ol’Roy; Paws; Pet Essentials; Pet Pride; President’s Choice; Price Chopper; Priority; Publix; Roche Bros; Save-A-Lot; Schnucks; Springsfield Pride; Sprout; Stater Bros; Total Pet; My True Friend; Western Family; White Rose; Winn Dixie and Your Pet.

This reminds me of my list of acceptable and unacceptable generic products. So much stuff is made at the same facility, it’s hard to figure out if you are actually getting better product by buying a brand name like Iams or Eukanuba. While the ingredients may be different, I would bet many of them are very, very similar. In this case, the recalled products were all made using the same wheat gluten.

While there are lots of good choices out there, we choose to buy Natural Balance dry food for our dog.

Poll: What’s The Most You’ve Ever Spent On An Impulsive Purchase?

See, this is why I don’t go to the mall. Even though we don’t like pet stores and the associated puppy mills, we came perilously close to buying another puppy today. It looked very similar to this little dude (We already have a Cavalier).

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(image from CuteOverload)
{democracy:2}

Impulsive means you woke up that morning without any plans to buy something, but by the end of the day you had it in your possession. Mine was probably a laptop that was “too cheap to pass up”. Leave the fun details in the comments ๐Ÿ™‚

Interest Rate Checkup – Online, Brick and Mortar, and Treasury Bills

Here is brief roundup of the top rates for short-term cash accounts with moderate balances.

Online Savings Accounts, No Minimum Balance
HSBC Direct continues it’s 6.0% APY rate on new money until April 30th, and you can open with $1. The highest non-promo rate is from Amtrust Direct at 5.36% APY, although you must open with $1,000. Overall, rates seem to be stable as of late.

Nationwide Brick and Mortar Accounts, No Minimum Balance
Washington Mutual continues to top this area, with their WaMu 5.0% APY Saving Account. You have to open online, but after that it has all the advantages of a local branch savings account; You can transfer instantly to/from their Free Checking account, deposit directly into savings via ATMs or tellers, and take cash directly out via ATMs.

28-Day Treasury Bills Possibly Good Alternative
If you are subject to state income taxes and have cash reserves that you don’t need immediate access to, you should definitely look into Treasury Bills. Rates change weekly, with the most recent auction results showing a 5.267% investment rate. Using my 28-Day T-Bill APR-to-APY calculator with my new Tax Equivalent Yield Calculator, along with an assumed 25% federal/9% state tax bracket, that is the equivalent of a taxable interest rate of 6.12% APY. Treasury Bills are backed by the full faith of the government, and also come in 3-month and 6-month terms.

The downsides to T-Bills include the fact that you will give up some liquidity and they must be bought in $1,000 increments. For more information on how to buy them online and building a T-Bill ladder, please read the posts in my Treasury Bill category archives. Look for a new visual how-to guide coming soon.

Personally, I continue to purchase T-Bills with a portion of my cash balances as I live in Oregon with a 9% state rate. It is actually very easy to have to money transferred to and from your existing high-yield bank account. For example, if you have $30,000 sitting in a bank, you might commit $20,000 to Treasury Bills and keep the rest 100% liquid. It all depends on what you feel comfortable with.

Also see: Rate Chaser Calculator.

Free Subscriptions To Select Magazines

It appears that you can sign up for up to 4 free years of one of these magazines via this Mags4Less link. Add the magazine your cart, select up to 4 years in length, scroll down and enter code “1free“, and checkout without registering. You shouldn’t need to even enter your real name or credit card number. I didn’t.

Options include Latina, Maxim, Working Mother, Shape, Stuff, Blender, Seed Magazine, Computer Shopper, Muscle & Fitness, Western Interiors, Ebony, Jane Magazine, Travel & Leisure Golf, and Jet.

I signed up for Travel and Leisure but didn’t notice it was Travel and Leisure Golf. Doh! Thanks J for the tip.

Tax Equivalent Yield Calculator For Savings Bonds, Treasury Bills, and Tax-Exempt Money Market Funds

There are many investments out there that are exempt from certain taxes. For example, U.S. Savings Bonds and Treasury Bonds are exempt from state and local income taxes. In addition, there are money market funds available that are exempt from federal income tax and others that are even exempt from a specific state or city’s income taxes.

Therefore, it is desirable to know what the equivalent fully-taxable rate is for one of these investments. For example, is it more profitable to earn a federal tax-exempt interest rate of 3.8% or a fully taxable 5.0%? How about a Treasury Bill paying 4.8%? Several variables affect this rate, including your marginal tax brackets for each area, as well as if you itemize your state and local taxes on your federal tax return. I could not find a calculator that accurately captured all of this, so I made my own.

Tax Equivalent Yield Calculator
(You may need to be on the individual post page for it to work.)

Enter the interest rate: %
Enter your marginal federal income tax rate: %
Enter your marginal state income tax rate (if any): %
Enter your marginal city/local income tax rate (if any): %
Exempt?
Federal Tax-Exempt
State Tax-Exempt
City/Local Tax-Exempt
Itemize?
Do you itemize deductions? Yes
No
Your tax-equivalent rate:   %

Example
Let’s say you live in California, and your marginal federal tax rate is 25%, your state rate is 9.3%, and you have no local income taxes. You do not itemize your taxes. You are trying to compare the taxable Vanguard Prime Money Market Fund (VMMXX, yielding 5.08%), the federally exempt Vanguard Tax-Exempt Money Market Fund (VMSXX, yielding 3.48%), and the state and federal tax-exempt Vanguard California Tax-Exempt Money Market Fund (VCTXX, yielding 3.38%).

With that profile, the tax equivalent 7-day yields would be 4.804% for VMSXX, and 5.145% for VCTXX, making the California Tax-Exempt Fund the best bet currently for this specific situation.

How It Works (Warning: Math Ahead!)
The calculator computes the tax-equivalent rates by comparing after-tax returns. That is:

AfterTaxReturnEquivalentTaxableRate = AfterTaxReturnTaxAdvantagedRate

Using the California Tax-Exempt Fund example above:

EquivalentRate x (1 – FederalTaxes – StateTaxes) = 3.38%
EquivalentRate x (1 – 0.25 – 0.093) = 0.0338
EquivalentRate = 5.145%

So earning 3.38% free from federal and state taxes is the same as earning 5.145% in a fully taxable account.

Note that itemizing deductions means that you deduct your state income taxes from your federal taxable income. The effect is that your overall tax liability is reduced, which lowers the benefit of any tax-exemptions and thus the equivalent rates. That would change the previous equation to:

EquivalentRate x (1 – FederalTaxes – StateTaxes + (FederalTaxes x StateTaxes)) = 3.38%
EquivalentRate = 4.969%

The inclusion of this option may give different results from some of the other online calculators out there, but I believe it makes the results more complete. Another fully-worked-out example can be found here for savings bonds.

Finally, it may be handy to use this in conjunction with my Ultimate Interest Rate Chaser Calculator. Be sure to compare APRs to APRs and APYs to APYs.

Useful Resources
2007 Federal Tax Rates
State Income Tax Rates
Recent Treasury Bill Auction Results
Savings Bonds Rates

Interesting Facts About Checking, Savings, and Money Market Accounts

A reader asked me if there was a difference between a FDIC-insured “savings” account and an FDIC-insured “money market” account. A bit of online searching and the venerable Wikipedia yielded the answer, plus some interesting facts about savings accounts.

First of all, why do savings account usually have higher interest rates than checking accounts? I think most of us know that banks make money by using our cash deposits and lending it out to others via mortgages, personal loans, or credit cards. However, we also expect that if we do want to withdraw our money, it will be there. To achieve this, each country sets its own reserve requirements, essentially how much cash the bank must physically keep in a vault somewhere to meet expected withdrawal demands.

As of 2006, the required reserve ratio in the United States was 10% on transaction deposits (checking accounts), and zero on time deposits (savings accounts). Due to fractional-reserve banking, having no reserve requirement allows the banks to lend out much more than their actual deposits.

Added: A quick explanation… At a reserve ratio of 10%, let’s say I put in $100. That means the bank can lend out $90. If whoever borrows that $90 put it in a bank, then the new bank can lend out 90% of that, or $81. This could repeat forever, leading to banks lending out 100+90+81+… = $1,000 for each $100 in deposits. This is just for a checking account. For a savings account, with zero required reserves, a bank could theoretically lend out an infinite amount of money (100+100+100+…). Aren’t you glad your money is insured now? ๐Ÿ˜‰

The main difference between checking and savings accounts are their transaction limitations, as outlined by Regulation D. You can only transfer funds out of your savings account up to six times per month by any pre-authorized method like online or telephone transfers, even to a checking account within the same bank. A max of three of these can be via check or debit card. You can still make unlimited withdrawals in person via a teller or ATM.

This is why it can be difficult to use your online savings account (at over 5% interest) as your sole account for paying bills and such instead of your checking account (often at 0%). Bank often charge fees for breaking this rule, and must close accounts where this transaction limit is repeatedly exceeded.

Back to the initial question – Is there a difference between a FDIC-insured “savings” account and an FDIC-insured “money market” account? From what I could find, no. They are both time deposit accounts, just with different naming conventions. Traditionally, money market accounts have a higher minimum balance requirement, and are more likely to offer checkwriting or a debit card (subject to the limits above). These both remain different from money market mutual funds, which are usually not FDIC-insured and are instead a collection of short-term debt instruments.

The Idea Of “Core and Explore” Investing

Do you see the data supporting index funds, yet still have the urge to try out some other theories? One way that financial folks try to resolve this conflict is with the concept of “Core and Explore” investing. I have no idea who came up with the name first, but essentially you split up your portfolio into two parts: a Core portion made up of low-cost index funds, and a Explore portion with which you can do whatever you want. This way, you can still watch CNBC, talk stocks around the water cooler, and try to decipher Cramer’s squealing. You get the rush of working to beat the market, but in the worst case you won’t fall too far behind.

Core Ideas (80-95% of total portfolio)
100% Target Retirement Fund, or
33% Total US Stock Market Index, 33% Total International Index, 33% Total Bond Index, or
Something based on one of these model asset allocation portfolios.

This part should be rebalanced regularly according to your pre-set asset allocation.

Explore Ideas (5-20% of total portfolio)
Individual Stocks
Actively Managed Mutual Funds
Options and Futures
Sector bets (Healthcare, Energy)
Currency Exchange, Gold, Commodities
Country bets (China, Russia, Japan, Brazil, India)
Market Timing (i.e. switching to 100% cash when bearish)

Many people mix index and non-index funds, but not necessarily consciously like this. I did have a “play money” account that I put a flat $5,000 towards before (as opposed to a percentage of my portfolio), but then I got busy/bored/disillusioned and liquidated it six months ago. I keep planning to revive it, but it just hasn’t made it up the priority list yet.

Subprime Mortgage Lenders Getting Hammered: What Does This Mean For Housing Prices?

Stock Chart for NEW

Although I should be paying more attention to the mortgage market, I’ve only gotten a chance to catch up this weekend. Above is the stock chart for New Century Financial (NEW), the second-largest subprime lender in the country. It basically dropped from $30 to $3 a share in a month, and is no longer taking any new loan applications. From this AP article:

“New Century, already the target of shareholder lawsuits, alarmed investors Thursday when it announced one of its financial backers had turned off the funding spigot. The company said last month it had failed to keep tabs on how frequently borrowers missed payments.

What? As a subprime lender, how is this fathomable? It looks like their fellow lenders haven’t been doing so hot either:

  • Countrywide Financial Corp. (CFC), the largest U.S. mortgage lender, recently told its brokers to stop offering borrowers the option of no-money-down home loans.
  • WMC Mortgage, part of General Electric (GE), recently laid off 20% of its workers and is no longer taking no-down-payment loans.
  • Washington Mutual is no longer making no-down-payment loans.
  • Fremont General Corp. recently shut its doors completely, and is seeking a buyer for its subprime operations after getting a cease-and-desist order from the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp.
  • More than 20 other subprime lenders have stopped lending or gone bankrupt in the past year due to increasing defaults.

The New York Times just published this article titled “Crisis Looms in Mortgages“. Some excerpts:

“What’s happening is the front end of this wave of teaser-rate loans that are coming into full pricing,” Federal Reserve Governor Susan Bies said on Friday. “So what we’re seeing in this narrow segment is the beginning of the wave. This is not the end, this is the beginning.”

?I guess we are a bit surprised at how fast this has unraveled,? said Tom Zimmerman, head of asset-backed securities research at UBS, in a recent conference call with investors.

Like worms that surface after a torrential rain, revelations that emerge when an asset bubble bursts are often unattractive, involving dubious industry practices and even fraud. In the coming weeks, some mortgage market participants predict, investors will learn not only how lax real estate lending standards became, but also how hard to value these opaque securities are and how easy their values are to prop up.

It is too early to tell how significant a role mortgage fraud played in the rocketing delinquency rates ? 12.6 percent among subprime borrowers… Some 35 percent of all mortgage securities issued last year were [subprime], up from 13 percent in 2003.

I can’t help but predict repercussions from this fallout to the rest of the mortgage world. Bad loans » Stricter lending standards » People qualifying for smaller loans and thus less buying power » Lower housing prices?

Of course this starts just when I am starting to browse the MLS listings again. Let’s see how badly I can mistime this thing…

Buy Your Glasses Online For $28 at EyeGlassDirect

Here’s an interesting entrepreneurial story from this month’s SmartMoney magazine. Imagine that you work at LensCrafters making eyeglasses. You see the extremely large profit margins. You go home, buy the same equipment, and install it in your condo. You train some technicians to do most of the work. You call it EyeGlassDirect.com and start selling basic glasses with frame for $28. All while still working at LensCrafters!

I’ve been wearing glasses for over a decade, and I’ve never even thought about buying them online. The store seems to be legit, it has a 30-day unconditional exchange policy and a relatively clean Better Business Bureau report. The glasses include add-ons like UV and anti-scratch coatings that sometimes cost extra.

$28 seems like a great price for those without insurance or just looking for a basic set of glasses. I’ve always felt LensCrafters was mainly for those that had vision insurance. My current insurance only covers either contacts or glasses, so I choose to pay out-of-pocket for glasses every couple of years (and add it to my flexible spending account). I have high-index lenses, so I’ll have to dig up my old Costco receipt to see if I should try these guys next time. Anyone use them before?

Added: You can find reviews for this and other online shops at GlassyEyes. I hate it when magazines mention bloggers but don’t give out their websites.

Risk and Return Relationships For Different Asset Allocations

After looking at how other people and mutual fund companies choose their asset allocation, I’m a little conflicted. Both the Vanguard and T. Rowe Price mutual funds recommend holding nearly 80% in stocks at age 50. That’s pretty aggressive in my book. To see why, let’s look at some historical numbers.

Coincidentally, a commenter left me a link to a recent FundAdvice article about fine-tuning your asset allocation. I’m actually going to ignore the specific components of his portfolio and focus on the general trends instead. Let’s just say it’s well-diversified.

The article provides historical numbers (1970-2006) that compares risk versus return for portfolios ranging from 0% stocks to 100% stocks. Risk is represented by standard deviation, a measure of volatility.

Risk vs. Return For Varying Stock Percentages
Risk vs. Return

This is pretty consistent with a lot of other similar charts I’ve seen. You’ll notice that the slope of the curve decreases as you move towards holding more stocks. Accordingly, if you compare the differences between successive dots, there risk gap grows larger and the return jump decreases. In other words, you are generally getting less return for each unit of risk as you keep adding more stocks.

Here is another risk-reward chart for increasingly aggressive portfolios.

Still, this chart really doesn’t help too much either. Why not just go for the 100%? Instead of averages, let’s focus on how bad it can get over the same time period (returns not annualized):

Worst Returns For Various Portfolios

This second chart is more important than the first one, because you won’t get any of the returns listed above unless you can “stay the course” through periods such as these.

It’s really easy to say “Oh, 30% drop, no problem”, but that’s not the whole picture. Not only will stocks be dropping, but bonds may be skyrocketing. Imagine if bonds are returning 15% a year at the same time stocks are going down 15%. You will have what appears to be a way out! Personal finance magazines will be shouting “Bonds are back!” Cutting down on your stock exposure will become the “prudent” decision.

Going back to the 80% stocks at 50 years old… Can you imagine losing 35% of your portfolio in one year at 50 years old? I would freak out. This is why age matters, it’s so much easier to shrug off losses when you know you won’t need the money for another 30+ years.

What Percentage Of Your Portfolio Should Be In Stocks?

One of the basic ways to adjust the risk and return characteristics of your investment portfolio is to decide what percentage to hold in stocks and bonds. This is another one of those hard questions for which there is no single best answer for everyone. You must take into account risk acceptance and time horizon amongst other factors.

An old rule of thumb is that your stock allocation percentage should be 100 minus your age. That is, a 30-year old should have 70% stocks/30% bonds, and a 70-year old should have 30% stocks/70% bonds. This was not just taken out of thin air, and has a basis from historical returns. As you near retirement, you want to have more bonds as that reduces overall volatility. More recently, others have altered this to a more aggressive “110-age” or even “120-age”.

Members of the Diehards investment forum recently performed a informal survey of member’s asset allocations versus their age, and here are the results:

Credit: Diehards Form

As you can see, there is definitely a lot of scatter in the data. However, if you made a linear fit, it roughly corresponds to a formula of stock percentage = 112.5 – age.

This made me curious – what about all those Target Retirement Funds? Their job is to decide an asset allocation that works for as many people as possible based on their retirement date. If I assume that people retire at 65 years old, here is what the asset allocation versus age looks like for three of the more popular fund families: Vanguard, Fidelity, and T. Rowe Price:

Target Retirement Fund Asset Allocation vs. Age

As you can see, the funds are actually pretty aggressive. (I covered previously how T. Rowe Price is more aggressive than Vanguard.) If one did force linear fits for all three fund families, it would correspond roughly to stock percentage of 119 – age. However, they don’t really adjust linearly with time. If I use a 2nd order curve fit instead, I can make a little tool that estimates their stock percentages for any age:

Input Your Age: Years
Percentage in Stocks
Vanguard Model:   %
Fidelity Model:   %
T. Rowe Price Model:   %
120 – Age:   %
113 – Age:   %

None of this is investment advice, it’s just an observation of what’s out there. Next, I’ll try to find some historical return and standard deviation numbers for another view of how to answer this question. What do you think of all this?