My Money Blog

I’ve gotten a few reader questions about my personal cash and bond holdings, so I thought I’d combine them here. You may be surprised that I don’t chase the top rates that much myself anymore, although I still do attractive deposit bonuses (most recently CIT Bank and Marcus). I’ve found that I can get pretty darn close to the top rates without being spread across as many bank accounts as in the past. My specific situation is that I have state income taxes of ~10%, so the fact that US Treasury obligations are exempt from state income tax makes a significant difference to me.

Big picture, I am roughly 70% stocks and 30% bonds and I let it float between 65%/35% or 75%/25% without worrying about. I mostly rebalance with both new cash inflows and internal flows of interest/dividends.

30% in bonds is broken down into 20% US “Regular” Treasury Bonds and/or FDIC-insured deposits and 10% US Treasury Inflation-Protected Bonds. For the US Treasury bonds, I hold mostly Vanguard Short-Term Treasury ETF (VGSH). The current 30-day SEC yield is 3.83%. Again, this converts to a tax-equivalent yield of ~4.25 APY due to the state-tax exemption for my situation.

VGSH is essentially a basket of US Treasury bonds held at a rock-bottom expense ratio of 0.03% with an average effective maturity and average duration of about 2 years. I converted to the ETF because the equivalent mutual fund has an expense ratio of 0.06%. If you think about it, a ladder of 1-year, 2-year, 3-year, 4-year, and 5-year bank certificates of deposit (CDs) with an added rung of “0-year” cash has an average duration of 2 to 2.5 years depending on how close they are to maturity. I used to spend a lot of time creating a 5-year CD ladder with top rates spread across multiple different credit unions, but right now I doubt you’ll beat a weighted average rate of 4.25% (again due to my 10% state tax rate).

What about more interest rate risk? The Vanguard Intermediate-Term Treasury ETF (VGIT) has an average duration of 5 years. The current 30-day SEC yield is 4.02% (roughly 0.20% higher). The steepness of the yield curve changes, but for the most part it is pretty flat right now, such that I haven’t felt that the slight increase in yield is worth the added interest rate risk. If interest rates go up, then that little bit of extra yield can be offset completely. Overall it’s a minor difference, VGIT would be fine really, but I do make sure to avoid long-term bonds. I used to own both short-term and intermediate-term funds, but now it’s just short-term for simplicity and lower stress. I choose to take my risk in the stock portion of the portfolio.

What about more credit risk? I can compare with Vanguard Total US Bond ETF (BND), which contains corporate bonds and mortgage-backed securities and such, with a current 30-day SEC yield of 4.34%. While BND also holds some Treasuries, it doesn’t meet the 50% threshold requirements for California, Connecticut, and New York, so residents don’t get any tax break in those states. That makes the difference only about 0.10%. For me, the extra risk doesn’t seem worth the extra yield.

Municipal bonds are also not competitive right now if you compare them directly (AAA-rated short-term munis to short-term Treasuries). I have held Vanguard muni bond funds in the past when their tax-equivalent yield was a full 1% higher than the same term US Treasury.

(* I know that there is discussion about the credit quality of the United States, which is fine and fair, but I still think they are the relative safest and don’t feel the need to diversify into corporate bonds or debt from other countries. The Treasury literally creates the money. Inflation is more of a concern to me.)

Speaking of inflation, my 10% in TIPS is mostly held in individual TIPS bonds because I can buy them in my Fidelity Solo 401k account and I can pick them up when the real yield is high and lock in that real yield for the entire term of the bond. That’s a very unique feature. I also hold TIPS ETFs like SCHP when I am looking to buy but the real yield is not good enough to lock in for a longer term. I got rid of my precious savings bonds because I don’t want my spouse to deal with TreasuryDirect if something happens to me.

Cash. As part of my bond allocation, I include at least a year’s worth of expenses in “cash”. Let’s say my rough withdrawal rate is 3%, so I keep about 3% of my portfolio in cash. This is mostly held in a combination of the following three accounts and whatever deposit bonuses I am currently pursuing.

• Vanguard Treasury Money Market Fund (VUSXX) has a currently APY equivalent of ~3.68%, which converts to a tax-equivalent yield of ~4.08% APY due to the state-tax exemption. Vanguard is a traditional brokerage and doesn’t provide things like Bill Pay or checking account features, but it is also where most of my stock dividends and bond interest payments land every quarter. Too bad they don’t offer VUSXX as a default sweep option, even though their default is pretty good.
• Fidelity® Treasury Only Money Market Fund (FDLXX) has a currently APY equivalent of ~3.3%, which converts to a tax-equivalent yield of ~3.67% APY due to the state-tax exemption. This is not as good as Vanguard or the very top online savings accounts, but I like that it usually stays relatively competitive without having to move any funds. I also use Fidelity for its brokerage/IRA/Solo 401k already. Direct deposit (and some dividends) goes in, and Bill Payments go out. Fidelity “pushes” these payments out. I don’t use Fidelity for anything else requiring their routing numbers, checkwriting, or debit card (anything “pulled” from Fidelity). Many of their banking services are farmed out through UMB Bank and if there is any kind of issue (like debit card fraud or ACH fraud), then dealing with them can be a pain as they can blame each other for the problem. Also see: Fidelity Treasury Only Money Market (FDLXX) as Fidelity Core Position Workaround.
• Ally Savings, SoFi Savings, and CIT Bank. I’ve used each of these for a while and I like that they are reliable especially when dealing with lots of smaller transactions (ACH pulls, check deposits, Venmo, etc) and interbank ACH transfers. They have competitive interest rates, if not the highest every month. They each also have invested in their own user interface for interbank transfers. Honestly, I’d stick with just Ally if I could as I like their system the best, but they’ve been lagging in the interest rate department recently.