Archives for July 2007

Another Free iPod Nano Offer From KeyBank

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone.

KeyBank is once again offering a free iPod Nano for opening a checking account and making either two direct deposits or automated payments of $100 or more. Last time around, online ACH transfers from another bank worked fine as a direct deposit, there was no hard credit pull done, and I got my iPod as promised. The catch is that I think you must live in an area that KeyBank serves to open an account. They state that the value of the iPod will be reported on a 1099-INT, although I can’t recall if I got one for 2006.

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Selected Fine Print:

You must open a Key Express Free Checking (this is the basic banking account in NY) or a Key Advantage Checking Account between July 21, 2007 and August 24, 2007, and make a combination of two direct deposits and/or automated payments each of $100 or more by October 26, 2007 and you will receive your iPod? by December 15, 2007. Automated payments excludes Key Bill Pay and debit card automated payments. Offer available to individuals without an existing checking account at KeyBank as of July 20, 2007…

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

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How Often Should I Rebalance My Investment Portfolio? A Brief Article Review

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I feel like my last post about rebalancing wasn’t as thorough as I’d have liked it to be, so here I go again, adding some quick definitions and including a review of several research articles about the subject.

What is Rebalancing?
Let say you examine your risk tolerance and decide to invest in a mixture of 70% stocks and 30% bonds. As the years go by, your portfolio will drift one way or another. You may drop down to 60% stocks or rise up to 90% stocks. The act of rebalancing involves selling or buying shares in order to return to your initial stock/bond ratio of 70%/30%.

Why Rebalance?
Rebalancing is a way to maintain the risk/reward ratio that you have chosen for your investments. In the example above, doing nothing may leave you with a 90% stock/10% bond portfolio, which is much more aggressive than your initial 70%/30% stock/bond mix.

In addition, rebalancing also forces you to buy temporarily under-performing assets and sell over-performing assets (buy low, sell high). This is the exact opposite behavior of what is shown by many investors, which is to buy in when something is hot and over-performing, only to sell when the same investment becomes out of style (buy high, sell low).

However, in taxable accounts, rebalancing will create capital gains/losses and therefore tax consequences. In some brokerage accounts, rebalancing will incur commission costs or trading fees. This is why, if possible, it is a good idea to redirect any new investment deposits in order to try and maintain your target ratios.

How Often Should I Rebalance My Portfolio?
Some people rebalance on a certain time-based schedule – for example, once every 6-months, every year, or every 2 years. Others wait until certain asset classes shift a certain amount away from their desired targets before taking any action. A good source of research articles about which method is optimal can be found at the AltruistFA Reading Room. I’ve been reading through them the past few days, and I’ll try to provide a very general overview of the articles here.

So what is best? You may be surprised by the fact that not only is there no clear agreement on the answer to this question, but many of the articles actually contradict each other! For instance, compare this Journal of Investing article:

Over this period, regular monthly rebalancing returns dominated less active approaches. Should one infer that daily rebalancing is better still? Our data cannot say, but it seems plausible.

with this excerpt from an Efficient Frontier article:

So, what can we conclude from all this? Monthly rebalancing is too frequent. There are small rewards to increasing one’s rebalancing frequency from quarterly up to several years, but this comes at the price of increased portfolio risk.

Eh? I believe that this is because their results vary significantly with the time period chosen and asset classes being used in their back-tested scenarios.

Then there is this paper from Financial Planning magazine, which used the 25 year period from Oct. 1977-Sept. 2002 and a 60% Stock (S&P 500 Index) and 40% Bond (Lehman Bros. Gov’t Index) as the starting/target allocation. Here are the results for various rebalancing frequencies:

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The various rebalancing periods showed minimal performance differences, although annual rebalancing held a slight return margin and a higher risk margin.

Because the risk-adjusted performance differences among the portfolios were small, the answer to the question of when to rebalance–monthly, quarterly, semi-annually, or annually–depends mainly on the costs to the investor of rebalancing.

Efficient Frontier’s Bernstein also agreed in the this last respect, stating “The returns differences among various rebalancing strategies are quite small in the long run.”

In the “wait for a significant shift before taking action” camp is author Larry Swedroe, who I think also presents a very reasonable solution. From a WSJ article:

With major holdings like U.S. stocks, foreign stocks and high-quality U.S. bonds, consider rebalancing whenever your fund holdings get five percentage points above or below your targets, suggests Larry Swedroe, research director at Buckingham Asset Management in St. Louis. For instance, if you have 40% earmarked for bonds, you would rebalance if your bonds got above 45% or fell below 35%.

Meanwhile, for smaller positions in sectors like emerging markets and real-estate investment trusts, Mr. Swedroe recommends a 25% trigger. So if you have 5% targeted for emerging-market stocks, you’d rebalance if emerging markets balloon above 6.25% or fall below 3.75%. “You definitely want to be rebalancing, but you don’t want to be doing it too often,” Mr. Swedroe says. “You want to let stocks go up a bit before you sell, but not so much that you lose control of risk.”

Summary
Since it seems that there is no concrete right answer, I think the most important thing is to just make sure you set up some way to rebalance that does not involve any emotions or market timing. Don’t worry about the details, but don’t let your portfolio run off on its own either. I think the subtitle of one of the articles above sums it up quite well… ‘Tis Better To Have Rebalanced Regularly Than Not At All.

I have personally chosen to rebalance annually. This method keeps it simple while still controlling risk and offering potential extra return. If I recall correctly, it is also recommended in Ferri’s book All About Asset Allocation (review).

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A Glimpse Into My Side Business Wanderings: Simple Websites

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Sometimes I am truly amazed by the internet. I can get an idea on a Friday night while talking with friends, go home, buy a domain name, create a website, upload it to a server, and have it live to the entire world before morning. I don’t need to buy any licenses, line up manufacturers, pick up raw materials, or hire any employees. Sure, I may have to wait a day for some DNS servers to resolve, and I will spend many more hours working on it later, but overall the instant gratification is great.

I’ve alluded in that past that part of my side business involves making websites for local clients, as well as miscellaneous websites on a variety of (mostly non-financial) topics that interest me. I get paid for the design work, as well and hosting and maintenance. Some of my own websites are profitable, and some are complete flops. But it’s fun and if you already have hosting set up for another website already, the only additional costs are my time and $9 at Godaddy (currently only $7 with coupon code ‘hash3’). To be perfectly honest, I’m not terribly good at graphic design or even web design.

Here’s the thing: I’m sure there’s some topic out there that you know about much more than the average person – venison recipes? making your own furniture? old Toyota truck? homeschooling your kids? That knowledge and passion are the most important things you need start your own website, not HTML skills.

Sorry for the rambling; I would write more, but the sun is going to rise soon and I can’t think straight anymore…

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

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Note To Self: Rebalance Your Portfolio!

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It’s been over a year since I came up with my current asset allocation mix, and I should really rebalance my current portfolio to match those percentages again. It really should only take a few minutes of spreadsheet math and some clicking online, but I’ve been plotting out a few long-term asset allocation changes in the meantime and I’ve been putting it off. I really must do one or the other soon.

Rebalancing is a way to maintain the risk/reward balance that you have chosen for your investments, and also forces you to buy temporarily under-performing assets and sell over-performing assets (buy low, sell high). How often one should re-balance their portfolio depends on a few factors. In taxable accounts, rebalancing will create capital gains/losses and therefore tax consequences. In some brokerage accounts, rebalancing will incur commission costs or trading fees. As for me, the vast majority of my retirement portfolio is in tax-sheltered accounts and in mutual fund accounts which are not subject to transaction fees. Some of my funds have redemption fees, though.

After that, some people rebalance on a certain time-based schedule – for example, once every 6-months, every year, or every 2 years. Others wait until certain asset classes shift a certain amount away from their desired targets. I will dig up some good articles on this topic later (here is one math-intensive article to start), but after my previous research I had settled on an annual rebalancing schedule. Of course, that was almost 15 months ago. 😳

If you rebalance, what is your criteria?

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

MyMoneyBlog.com is also a member of the Amazon Associate Program, and if you click through to Amazon and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support.


401k/403b Rollovers: Should You Move Your Old Retirement Plan To Your New Employer?

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Let’s continue with the 401k/403b Rollover discussion. Previously, I explored some possible reasons to keep your old employer’s plan. The next option to consider (if only briefly) is to transfer your 401k/403b assets into your new employer’s retirement plan. You can only transfer after-tax contributions between the same type of account (401k » 401k, or 403b » 403b), but more common pre-tax contributions should be able to be transferred between different types as long as the new plan allows rollovers.

The reasons you might want to do an employer-to-employer transfer are very similar to before:

Special investment options
Maybe your new employer plan has some desirable options that aren’t available to a retail IRA investor. The average 401k has something like 7 mutual fund choices though, so this is probably unlikely. Ask your new HR department for details.

Lower minimum balances or fees
If you have a small balance and figure you might as well cash it out as you don’t meet other account minimums, don’t! Your new employer will probably have no minimum requirements and you can continue to build on what you have already contributed.

Ability to take out loans
Your new 401(k) may allow you to take out loans against your savings, which you can’t do with an IRA. In addition, if you already have a loan from your old 401(k), your new one may allow you transfer over that loan. Otherwise, most plans make you pay back the balance immediately or risk having it penalized as an unqualified withdrawal.

Still not sure? Another alternative is to roll your plan into a Rollover IRA, keeping it separate and not merging it with any other IRAs, and then see how you like your new employer’s plan. If somehow you do, then you can transfer the Rollover IRA assets into your new plan.

References: SmartMoney, American Funds

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

MyMoneyBlog.com is also a member of the Amazon Associate Program, and if you click through to Amazon and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support.


Hedge Funds: Too Sexy For My Money

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You have probably heard of hedge funds, which are investment funds somewhat similar to mutual funds in they pool together money from different investors, but with the very important difference that they have virtually no limitations on what they can invest in, and also have no requirements to disclose their holdings.

In order to invest in a hedge fund, you are usually required to be an accredited investor, which means that you either have a net worth of at least $1 million or have made at least $200,000 each year for the last two years (or $300,000 joint combined). Supposedly this is to show that you are savvy enough to navigate these loosely-regulated waters, but to me it seems like they just want you to be able to lose a ton of money on these sexy-sounding investments and not make a big fuss about it.

I was reminded of this when reading about the most recent big-name hedge fund failures:

Investors in two troubled Bear Stearns Cos. hedge funds that made big bets on subprime mortgages have been practically wiped out, the Wall Street firm said yesterday, in more evidence of the turmoil in this corner of the bond market.

Bear said one of its funds was worth nothing and another worth less than a 10th of its value from a few months ago after its subprime trades went bad, according to a letter Bear circulated and to people briefed by the firm. The Wall Street investment bank — known for its bond-trading savvy — has had to put up $1.6 billion in rescue financing.

Oops! I guess they didn’t hedge their credit risk exposure very well. For more reading, just run a search for Long Term Capital Management or see the Wikipedia entry:

Initially enormously successful with annualized returns of over 40% in its first years, in 1998 it lost $4.6 billion in less than four months and became the most prominent example of the risk potential in the hedge fund industry. The fund folded in early 2000.

Here is an example of hedge fund fraud:

An Atlanta hedge fund manager under suspicion of defrauding a group of investors that included several NFL players now faces criminal charges in connection with the collapse of funds that investors believed held up to $180 million.

While I plan to meet the requirement to become a accredited investor, and wouldn’t mind working for a hedge fund, I’m pretty sure I’ll never sink a penny into one. I just don’t see the need to take such risks.

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

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Updates on the American Express Gold Card 25,000 Mile Bonus Offer

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The New Business Gold Rewards Card from American Express Image

Update: The below promotion is now expired. The New Business Gold Rewards Card® from American Express OPEN now offers 3X points on airfare, 2X points on advertising, gas, and shipping and 1X point on everything else. The annual fee for this card is $175 but it is waived for all new cardholders. You can also get unlimited additional gold cards for an extra annual fee of $50 but this fee is waived for the first year as well.

I finally got around to opening some mail today and saw that my New Business Gold Rewards Card® from American Express OPEN arrived. I had almost forgotten I had applied for it in the whole move. (I convinced my wife to apply as we could really use the 25,000 Membership Reward sign-up bonus as frequent flier miles.)

As has been reported by other readers, the paperwork that came with it only mentions a bonus of 5,000 points after the first purchase and another 20,000 after spending $50,000. I really wanted to get to the bottom of this, so I called American Express and talked with multiple reps about the bonus. I explained to them that the wording is very clear, I have the specific bonus code, and is the offer still up after more than two weeks, so it is clearly not some unintentional misprint:

Upon the Basic Cardmember’s first purchase, a one time bonus of 25,000 points can be earned toward the Basic Business Gold Rewards Cardmember’s Membership Rewards? account and may appear as separate credits of 5,000 and 20,000 bonus points.

Most of the reps seemed like robots and just sounded confused as this wasn’t on one of their scripts, so I just ended the call quickly in that case. But two of them were familiar with this promotion, and said that they had already fielded several calls about it. The summary:

1. The same paperwork goes out to everybody, and what is mentioned is the standard, older promotion. This doesn’t mean you won’t get the 25,000 points, as this special promotion does exist and is valid.
2. The problem is that they can’t tell on their computers which promotion you signed up for. However, it should be tracked in their systems internally if you used the right link. I would keep a print-out of your page. If you want, you can call them and ask them to note specifically the Bonus ID 2329 on your account, which may help you dispute if anything does happen later.
4. Otherwise, there is really nothing you can do right now. Personally, I am confident that they will come through, as I have already scored $100 + 5,000 miles from the same card last year, and in that case nothing about any bonus was mentioned in the paperwork that came with the card! I’m just going to make my first purchase quickly, tuck it away, and wait the 6-8 weeks.

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

MyMoneyBlog.com is also a member of the Amazon Associate Program, and if you click through to Amazon and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support.


Updated About Me, Net Worth, and Advertising Pages

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone.

I have been neglecting some of the supporting pages on this blog, so I spent some time tonight freshening them up:

  • Updated my About Me page to include more current and descriptive information.
  • Simplified the site’s Advertising options, and changed to an easier payment system which requires less maintenance.
  • Updated the links and graphs in my Net Worth history section.
My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

MyMoneyBlog.com is also a member of the Amazon Associate Program, and if you click through to Amazon and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support.


SunRocket VoIP Phone Meltdown: What Next?

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I have received several messages and comments this morning about how SunRocket has quietly shut down, with them no longer taking new customers or answering their phones (outside sources: NY Times and DSLReports), as I am have previously been a happy customer and even posted a review. I might have picked up on this earlier but my Gizmo VoIP box is on a moving truck somewhere right now so I have no idea if it still works. There appears to still be no mention on the main website, which makes it seem like they really don’t care anymore about customer service.

My current status: Still don’t have Gizmo so I can’t say about service. I set my Sunrocket number to forward to my cell phone and it works fine. Caller ID even transfers through. I can still check voicemail over the phone, but not online.

The NY Times article suggest that accounts will be taken over by another company, but other competitors are already trying to lure us with offers to port our numbers for free. If you’re a new customer, you may want to hurry up and dispute the charge with your credit card company before it’s too late. Refunds may or may not happen (It’s not looking good.) Here are some alternatives to waiting that come to mind:

» ViaTalk6 month now only 3 months contract buyout (print out your Sunrocket information), $199 for two phone lines for one year. You must also pay $10 for shipping and $30 for initial activation. However, I don’t know about their situation either and what’s to stop them from going belly-up as well? Shaky financials is probably the case for all the VoIP-only companies right now.

» Vonage – The embattled VoIP company is offering former Sunrocket customers two months free if the sign up for the Unlimited plan. More stable, but I wouldn’t say Vonage is a solid company right now given all it’s legal troubles from Verizon on top of plain old financial troubles.

» Skype: SkypeIn + SkypeOut + Skype Phone System – SkypeOut (unlimited calling out to US and Canada) is $30/year, SkypeIn (phone number + voicemail) is $60/year, and a phone system cost varies from $5 (just add headset to PC) to ~$200 (cordless phone w/o PC).

I’ve been using Skype more recently via headset and it’s not too bad, but I still like have a “real” phone. I need to do more research on the newer Skype phones that don’t need PCs to work or those boxes that replicate a phone jack – any experiences or recommendations? Update: I am looking at phone jack replicator for $60 that lets me use my traditional cordless phones.

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

MyMoneyBlog.com is also a member of the Amazon Associate Program, and if you click through to Amazon and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support.


401k/403b Rollovers: Reasons To Stay Put With Your Old Employer’s Plan

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone.

One of the most common questions I get from people when they find out that I like personal finance is “What should I do with my 401k/403b/457 plan from my old job?” My own 401k rollover decision process was one of my first blogging topics. I eventually settled on rolling my 401(k) balance into an IRA at Vanguard, although I have since changed my specific investment choices. This time around, my wife has the ex-401k that needs to be addressed, and so I think it’s a good time to do a more in-depth series on 401k (and similar) rollovers.

To start off, should you really move your retirement plan somewhere else? I think you’ll see that in most cases the answer is yes, but there are some possible benefits to staying put. Here are a few:

Special investment options
While many 401(k) plans offer very limited or expensive options, some of them actually offer investments that you may not be able to get anywhere else. For example, your plan may give you access to a mutual fund that is normally closed to new investors, a special institutional or pooled fund with super-low expenses, or the ability to buy your company stock at discounted prices.

Lower minimum balances or fees
One benefit of many 401(k) is that there are often no minimum balance requirements to invest in an offered fund. For example, my wife might have as little as $10 in a Fidelity Spartan index fund with a tiny 0.10% annual expense ratio while it is in her 401(k), but in an IRA the minimum would be $10,000. At the same time, the account may continue to waive all maintenance fees even after you leave (check with your administrator.) Depending on where you move your money to, other brokers may charge fees for low balances.

Together, it may be a good idea to keep smaller portfolios in such a 401k until the balance grows enough to consolidate with other investments.

Ability to take out loans
Although not necessarily a good idea, many plans do offer the option of being able to borrow money temporarily from your 401(k). This option is not available in an IRA.

I probably missed something, so if you have some more reasons not to move your retirement plan into an IRA, please share in the comments below.

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

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Will Income and Social Security Taxes Go Up Or Down In The Future? A Look Back

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Everybody says up, right? While I can’t predict the future, I thought it would be interesting to see what the historical tax rates were for different income groups. Here is some data taken from the Congressional Budget Office about historical federal tax rates as a percentage of “comprehensive household income”, defined as pretax cash income plus income from other sources like rental income and dividends. Note that this isn’t the same as your marginal income tax rate, which is the tax rate on your last dollar earned; This is a percentage of all your income.

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As a reference, here are the quintiles for annual household income as defined by the US Census Bureau in 2005:

1st Quintile: $0 – $18,500
2nd Quintile: $18,500 – $34,738
3rd Quintile: $34,738 – $55,331 (Median: $46,326)
4th Quintile: $55,331 – $88,030
5th Quintile: Over $88,030

Looking at the chart, it seems that the top quintile has paid about the same amount overall, while the overall effective federal income tax rate has actually fallen for the rest.

Now, what about social insurance payroll taxes that go towards Social Security and Medicare? These have been going up over time for just about everybody:

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I even added a linear trendline, which although completely unscientific, suggests that if such a trend continues the effective percentage will increase approximately 1% every 20 years.

My Money Blog has partnered with CardRatings and may receive a commission from card issuers. Some or all of the card offers that appear on this site are from advertisers and may impact how and where card products appear on the site. MyMoneyBlog.com does not include all card companies or all available card offers. All opinions expressed are the author’s alone, and has not been provided nor approved by any of the companies mentioned.

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Life Updates: Moving, New Jobs, New Housing, And Clutter

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Whew! I’ve slept in seven different beds so far in the last two weeks, not including airport lounges. How about some updates?

The Big Move. Sadly, we no longer in Oregon. We are leaving a great city, great food (tachos and microbrews!) and even greater friends. Luckily, we managed to secure a very generous relocation package from our employer, complete with full-service movers that packed almost everything for us, from the dishes to the furniture. The bad news is that we had a lot less incentive to properly shed ourselves of all our clutter, and instead it’s coming with us. 🙁 I’m keeping our exact location vague for privacy reasons, but I’ve hinted before that it has a high cost-of-living and is near the Pacific Ocean.

New Digs. We are actually going to be staying in a relative’s extra rooms for now. We have been living out of suitcases for a while now and it has actually been nice, so the plan is to keep living as such for as long as we can. If we don’t find any acceptable houses to buy, we will then start to look for another house to rent. Our biggest problem currently is trying to convince our relatives to accept money from us!

New Jobs. Soon after we arrive we will be starting our new jobs. Again I won’t name our employers, as sharing detailed financial information anonymously online is one thing, but sharing them with co-workers is another. I will reveal that we will now both be making six-figure incomes, and they are in categories listed in my six-figure salary survey results. Accordingly, you will be seeing a boost in our monthly net worth changes.

I’m 29 years old now. I know the number shouldn’t matter, but I’m sort of happy that all these things have happened before I turned 30. We are not millionaires or anything spectacular, but we are settling down somewhere for the long haul, surrounded by family, gainfully employed, and moving forward. What more could one ask for?

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